3 panels waiting before engraving, they still smell like fresh paint
so I don't think the paint is hard enough. 2x4mm. acryl.
http://flatlandpilots.nl/coppermine/...2/DSCF1578.jpg
http://flatlandpilots.nl/coppermine/...2/DSCF1581.jpg
Printable View
3 panels waiting before engraving, they still smell like fresh paint
so I don't think the paint is hard enough. 2x4mm. acryl.
http://flatlandpilots.nl/coppermine/...2/DSCF1578.jpg
http://flatlandpilots.nl/coppermine/...2/DSCF1581.jpg
Hmmmmm, nice smell, the smell of near melting acrylic ...:-).
Mooooi ! Complimentos.
Which sort of acryl do you use: extruded of casted ?
Hessel
My cooling of acryl in pictures:
http://www.elektor.nl/forum/forum/ac....1315529.lynkx
My engraving in pictures:
http://www.elektor.nl/forum/forum/ac....1315632.lynkx
casted acryl.
and a fresh leveled mdf bed each time
with the corner holes drilled in for positioning
dank je Hessel
I dont have access to a CNC so i was going to try to use plexiglass and then print the DARK black ink onto a sheet of plastic and then make the words white. Wouldn't that work or do you guys have a better idea?
that can work,but 1 sheet black print is not enough to block the lightQuote:
Originally Posted by 388TH_A
best results gave me 2 transparants/overhead prints covered with 1 paper,
all with 1 glue side all laserprinted, and afterwards clear matt laquer
or laminate it to protect. positioning it real perfect is quite hard.
you can consider going to printshop, they have better(darker black) printers.
and can print on 0.5 mm. white foil.
Yeah thats what i was thinking was going to a print shop and let them print it with there laser printers. Was thinking about maybe trying to get them to print it on that plastic paper that a resturant would use up on there menus. so your saying print 2 of them that are the same and then put one clear piece on top to protect it?
Also i was thinking about going onto paint and making up what i wanted it to look like and then putting that into Microsoft Word and then trying to go from there or something not really sure on how im going to do it....
Really awesome looking panels! Really top-notch! Care to share your g-code files? I would love to cut a set of these.
388th, what panels do you need? Maybe some of us can cut you some and send them to you... My machine isn't big enough to cut MIPs, but just about anything else.
Buddy
Really nice work... one day i may be able to do nice panels like that ... one day...:)
They are nice... I'm a ways from that quality. I'm busy ordering new bits and plastic. can you say emergency stop switch? That's my next project.
BuddyM.... I'm with you... how about a G-Code section the downloads? I'm getting discouraged with my CNC. Can't seem to get the speed right. I need to create something to keep going.
Warren
Warren I am having some trouble to with mine. I have found for cutting out shapes that a feed rate of about 10mm/sec works well with a 2 or 3mm bit. The 3mm is better as it gets rid of the waste better. I broke mine last week and had to go back to 2mm until i could get a replacement. My router is a single speed unit and at 10mm/sec, there is no chattering on the edges. I also set the plunge rate at 10. It takes a little longer with the actual cutting but the results are pretty good. A quick sanding with 400 wet and dry and off the paint area.
My main concern is getting the panel flat so that the engraving is the same depth across the panel. On some of the ones todate, it starts off at 1mm on one side of the panel and then is not even touching the other side. Very frustrating at the moment. So i cam cutting the panels and painting them and while they are drying I am trying to sort out this uneven depth problem.
I am happy with the actual cut out shapes and sizes. Just gotta get it working for the engraving.
Thanks for the tips... It would appear I need to either slow my feed rate or speed up my cut. My level is fairly good, but does taper on one corner. I just cut a few sacrifical table tops today while I was working on my MIP stand. I should be able to shim/adjust those to be fairly close.
Warren
this is milled with: 3mm bit, 200mm/min, 20.000 rpm., 1.5 mm. deepQuote:
Originally Posted by fsaviator
with acryl you better speed a bit up to keep cool.
I find that the most hard part too, its better the height tolerance is below 0.1 mm.Quote:
Originally Posted by davek
to do that I start with a fresh leveled MDF bed each time,
that works.
My Radio Stack is 8" Tall and 15" Wide
http://ttd.g11.us/FSPics/radio_stack_front.JPG
I can/will post all of my A320 cut files tonight. As was stated by flatland, you have to keep in mind that these are sort of like art in a way... each person's panels may be/are different. For instance, my panels are engraved and cut at the same time (so far), and the size of my panels is taken directly from the A320_paneles CAD file, so they will fit a sim with those dimensions best. That being said, it will be great to have a set of cut files for eveyone to draw from, and adjust as needed... probaby even better if we post the DXF drawing files as well.
Buddy
(original) (dxf) files, with a known scale, would be great.
especially Airbus ;)
All I have are the seperated DXF and g-code files I made from the A320_Paneles.zip file. I originally was making test panels using hand-drawn files made from looking at pictures on cockpitsonic and othersites. My glare panels are made in one piece, with engraving and cutting done at the same time. I will post the EFIS and FCU files after I submit this post. I know they will not be what everyone wants, but they may be useful to someone.
Buddy
Hey Dave, I have a piece of MDF fixed to my table as a cutting block. I then get a large (20-25mm) flat router bit & shave the top of the block so it is perfectly the same distance from the router to the block if that makes sense. I first tried to fix my work to the block with fixings around the edges, but I wouldnt get a consistant level of engraving as sometimes the middle of the work might be slightly raised. I now stick my work down with double sided tape , find a tape that is not too sticky as ita a pain in the *** to get off. I also found that spraying a thin layer of polyurathane floor varnish, makes it come away from the block a bit eaiser. I use a 30° "V" point, PreciseBIT 2-flute Scoring / Engraving bit, 0.005in tip for my engraving, just scratching the paint off the surface with 2 passes..
Hope this helps you out a bit..
Thanks for the tip guys... I will do exactly that. I also need to check the table etc and make sure everything is level as well.
I will let you know how i go.
As for dbl side tape. the plastic i buy has the sticky paper on each side. I cut the panels and then remove the paper. So i could remove the engraving side and paint. Then use the paperside to apply the dbl side tape which would come off with the paper.
baro panel milled:
http://flatlandpilots.nl/coppermine/...2/DSCF1593.jpg
font: Futura Md BT 15 points (4 mm.)
I started above the panel and dropped down 0.1 mm. a few times.
30 degr bit diam .25 overstep 50%
after it I brushed it real gentle with a soft toothbrush.
I start to like the OC switches, but you can see light leaking on the left and right
side of the buttons, a bit of black paint will be enough to tackle that.
That looks great! Did you use an endmill? I have the issue with the light leakage too, so I put a small, tight-fitting felt skirt on the buttons to block the light. Have you built any annunciators or korries yet? I started experimenting with landing gear indicators Saturday and I am very encouraged by my reults. I should have something to post later in the week. So many aspects of cockpit building to deal with!!
Buddy
no endmill, everything with a 3 mm. bit,
I made the holes for the switches square by hand.
Can I take that back ?Quote:
Originally Posted by flatlandpilot
Now I know that when you use 2 panel layers that paint
easy wants to suck in between the acryl. :(
Now I use black kit that doesn't walk capilair :eek: