3D printed tiller wheel

[pierclav]

First things first: credit to Jackpilot for the measurements.

8 hours of printing and plenty of finishing work in the following order:

1- Glazing putty (red) to fill the the surface of the 3d print

2- Sanding (100 and 220 grit)

3- Alternating coats of primer-finisher (grey) and polypropylene bumper primer (clear)

4- Sanding (220 and 400 grit)

5- Black acrylic

6- High-gloss clear coat.

I am pretty happy with the results for a first try. I will be happy to share the Solidworks and STL files (or any other format I can convert to).

I will design and print the cap shortly.

Pierre

[Farkaskoma]

Great work, if You can plz upload the stl to yeggi or thingiverse. There are great collection of cockpit parts and expanding.

[John_B]

Pierre

Excellent stuff. What drawing package are you using?

I have just bought a 3D printer and am learning the 3D software...nightmare stuff ....what a learning curve!
I have not set the printer up yet as we are moving house (hopefully ) soon.

I for one would be interested in the STL file

I have drawn up dual and triple concentric knobs and the bit that goes on the yoke that holds the trim switches but they remain untested/ not printed at the moment.

I say again EXCELLENT

John

[Geremy Britton]

Hi Pierre

Excellent work well done!
Have you tried any other parts?

[pierclav]

Farkaskoma: Here is the file. I will also publish it on Thingiverse. The stl file for the cap will follow shortly.

John: I am using Solidworks. 3D printing can be a barrel of laughs especially with a homebrewed printer like I did. Nothing makes sense until the moment you hear that click inside your brain and it all becomes crystal clear. I also have some knobs designed and ready to print. I will experiment with the finishing which should be interesting due the their small size. The polypropylene bumper filler looks like a good solution. A resin SLA 3D printer would be great for knobs but their cost is still to high. I may look into making a yoke wheel in the future. In the meantime, I purchased one from Simujabs. It is a very nice product and it fits perfectly on the real 737 yoke elbow I found on eBay.

Geremy: I am building an SST and I am trying to make all the parts I can so I do have a good collection of parts. I am modeling pretty much everything on Solidworks. I live in Thailand so i have access to machines shops, CNC machines and laser cutters at dirt cheap prices. For example, I had a MIP stand CNC'ed on 12MM MDF for 18 euros including the material (1.2 x 2.4m).

[John_B]

Hi Pierre

Thank you so much for the info I have yet to hear that click (but then I have yet to do the finish assembly of the printer)
I am using Sketchup (among others).
The finishing.... I have seen excellent results where fairly rough models are coated with a two pack resin (like epoxy) I think my instinct will we to try out various solvents and kind of melt the surface. But then I am ever the optimist LOL

Please keep us updated with your printing I am watching closely.
18 Euro .....I am now crying into my coffee....the guys here won't answer the phone for that ....:cry:

John

[Shawn]

Really nice work, I love the finish you got. I have printed a few parts for my Jetranger simulator and have to say the 3D printer is way more useful that I would have first thought. I am experimenting as well with a putty that dries rock hard but will have a look at the bumper primer as well.

Cheers
Shawn

[Farkaskoma]

Can we make a dedicated download library for 3d printing files? We can also collect em here. I have also some designs to upload.

[iwik]

Farkaskoma,
Great idea,
Matt: What do you think?.
Les

[John_B]

Yes Brilliant Idea!!!

John

[Shawn]

I think a 3D part repository is a great idea, I actually brought this up over at Hovercontrol but this would certainly be a better spot. I have a few STL files that I would be happy to share with the group. Part of the fun is in the designing but having the option to download a part might be nice occasionally. I haven't printed this part yet but they will bolt to the helicopter pedals I"m currently working on.


http://s10.postimg.org/r1359c80p/Bell_pedal_covers.png

[pierclav]

Shawn,

I used 1-part glazing putty which is normally used to fill pinholes, scratches and dents. It is easily sandable starting with 200 grit.

Pierre

[Shawn]

Thanks Pierre, I will pick some up tomorrow and give that a try in my next parts. The pedal covers turned out alright, they have a first coat of paint. Printed at 100% infill for durability.

http://s4.postimg.org/6y2vjannh/image.jpg

[John_B]

Well I could not wait until I moved I had a break over xmas and put the printer together and made my first item ( the yoke trim switch thing)..after many many attempts...best I can say at the moment is "acceptable" BUT with a few coats of high build filler primer and some body putty it will be just fine...maybe when its finished I will pop in some pictures but too ashamed right now
:oops:.

[iwik]

Hi John,
seasons greetings, what 3d printer have you just put together?.
Regards
Les

[John_B]

HI Les
and season greeting to you too!

Its a CTC dual extruder........LOL sound like I know what I am talking about eh?

John

[Geremy Britton]

Hello All, I will email Matt Olieman to find out if we can add a section to the downloads area for 3D printing files for you guys!
Best Regards

[Ifly3]

If youy heat a pail of acetone with a pad heater then hold the part in the vapor above the liqud for 6 sec.it will smooth it out.

[Ifly3]

120 degrees F.