Yet another 737 project

[AndyCYXU]

My favorite will always be 767-300ER, I flown this one the most of time... as a passanger lol... my second favorite would have to L1011 never will forget landing in that one... yup as a passanger... but i recall that what seemed to be 90 deg turn on final that pilot performed i saw the runway clearly from a side window near the front of the aircraft... i was like 'what the heck' '...really...' :o no way !!! well he lended and he did it the other two times i got a chance to fly on this aircraft to the same airport. Amazing wide body jet! I tried it in my FS98 and was able to do it too. amazing..
Anyhow... I decided to go with the 737 as there seemed to be the highest asortment of bits and pieces for this one that i would not dare try to make by myself.. sometimes there is no alternative to a nice profecionally manufactured piece. so here it is.. my yet another version of 737 home build cockpit.

on these pictures my center monitor was broken... idk what happened i just hit the monitor frame several times with a hamer to flatten some edges as the monitor did not fit quite well and i needed to have room for the landing gear... i guess monitor+hamer = new monitor ... ROFLMAO

Monitor has since been replaced with another the all work fine... and there has been a lot more progress sine these pictures were made will update 'brag' with newer pictures later on..

I started the project in October in only took me with a lot of help from my friend who is very good with saw 4 weekends to bring it to useable state as you can see in the last picture.
I have since added few more things and now there is all the fun little work left of getting it fitted with all the buttons/knobs/switches... etc... all the fun stuff ... oh yes and make them work too... :shock:

On technical side of things the sim runs on a single computer i7-2700 oc to 4.9GHz with gtx680 powering the 3 top monitors in nvidia surround mode and and captain instruments and gtx670 powers the other 2 monitors for center and first officer instruments. Video card are not overclocked.
Only pmdg737ngx is used with fsx, no other software.. well aside from some fsx addons like rex/utx/mytrafic etc... i will be adding a second computer older p4 system to run addons that cannot work in full screen mode such as fscommander for example.
All modules panels are from Opencockpit for now i plan on getting TQ from JetMax for the center piece.
I would like to thank all who help and all the great minds who programed and configured Sioc files to make this possible! I guess i will eventually need to improve my sioc knowledge to make it all work lol
You guys are great THANKS A MILLION !

Andy

here is a little video i made as well


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-waIwS-G6c&sns=em

[paul096]

Hi Andy

Thats looking good
I think the NGX is brilliant and seems pretty good for the cockpit builder
I'm really happy with how my project, like yours a single computer system is progressing

a couple of questions for you, just trying to help
you've proberly solved these already but

I've modified my panel cfg and created a ISFD for one of my standby gauges have you thought about what you will do for your standby gauges ?

also how do you get your displays to appear where you want them ?
do you have to drag them into position each time or have you solved this issue ?
I've got a fix for this its not perfect but a lot quicker than dragging gauges

I've noticed that sioc is relatively new to the NGX but I've got a script for the open cockpits CDU if you need one

if you need any help with anything I'm not an expert but i might be able to help with somethings as I've properly recently had the same problems

one other important thing don't assign a parking break switch through FSUIPC or you gauges will all go black and the ngx will keep crashing on initialisation, I know it sounds weird but i did it and it caused loads of problems until i figured it out its even quoted not to do it in the ngx manual

[AndyCYXU]

hi, paul
that is sure a lot of useful info you got, dont mind if i go.... yes, yes i want :p.
1. i have not figure out how to get the stand-by gauges out, so i could sure use what you have done to get them out and place them where they belong on the panel.
2. to place the gauges where they belong w/o dragging them i use a program called panel-restore, same as you its not perfect way but after initial set up that may take 5-10 min max! it is a breez take seconds to put them where they belong after wards. i made a short video of how it works on youtube if you interested just type andycyxu that should get you there unless your way is the same then you know exactly what i'm talking about. if your way is different i would like to hear from you it just might be better then mine and i could implement it in my set up.
3. i do not own the CDU yet but its on my 'to get list' , so again i'm very interested in the script you have that makes it work with pmdg and also tell me which cdu you have is it made by opencockpit or by whom.. it might b good idea if i got the same one to make sure it works perfect. Does yours let you do everything just as if you were to use regular window within pmdg 737? if so then again i'm very interested as well as your CDU manufacturer so i'd get the same.
4. parking brake i just use ctrl+. i will be using TQ from jetmax talk to Peter over there he says they will have same next year so i put me on a waiting list :-D. will then see how the config with parking brake will work.
you can PM me or email me the info when you have time i will appriciate that.
my email is simple userid for me as you see on here @ gmail . com (no spaces all lower case)
Thanks
Andy

[AndyCYXU]

Added 2 Six Packs for FO and Captain working well with PMDG and also Back light to flaps panel and hooked up some annunciators.
Still need to configure the switches on Auto-break/flaps panel.. have some time playing with SIOC...:shock:

The annunciators look kinda bright and ugly on the pictures, but they are actually very nice.
and the front view with six packs .. in test mode all ON

[nolatron]

Hey Andy,

What method are using you get rid of the cockpit? Just using 2D mode without the panel?

[AndyCYXU]

Yes, besically open 2d cockpit view then right click on 2d panel itself choose close.
there is an issue with flickering mouse pointer when you do that in which case you loose a lot of performance, but somehow idk how i managed to fix it and it works very well no weird flicker mouse it has to do with nvidia surround and editing panel.cfg... but i cant really explain and maybe you wont even have this problem.
This video shows how i do it near the end of the video.
Edited: oops nvm it doesnt show that, its just similar to what you use as i watched on your blog. but anyways yes 2d panel, just dont use W to maximize window it will mess it up with the crazy mouse coursor.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PdisQh2Xrg&sns=em

[paul096]

Looking good Andy !

[AndyCYXU]

Here are some more pictures if anyone is interested I will try to also post some SIOC scripts I have got with the help of other users, all mainly meant for PMDG 737 NGX and Opencockpits Hardware.

FSX Home Cockpit: The Cockpit Progress (http://b737homecockpit.blogspot.ca/2013/01/this-is-first-time-it-looked-more-like.html)

Andy

[Geremy Britton]

I've not seen this thread, but it was certainly an interesting read through. thanks guys... :)

[AndyCYXU]

Added the ENG and SYS buttons

It will mount here, 2 big holes on the bottom is where the screws seen on next picture will hold it in place.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-145XgWMANDA/UO3YP8lD-AI/AAAAAAAADPM/EHoSZHmQWcU/s320/IMG_1253.JPG
Now just choosing the correct holes where the pins of the switches have to go so they are center for the buttons The 2 screws you see below will hold it in place as explained above
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nZZ7pEHyLi8/UO3YQRLL-pI/AAAAAAAADPU/3gm1LJb__HQ/s320/IMG_1252.JPG



http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4RHStfLGVe0/UO3YQkFhHkI/AAAAAAAADPY/MfWaStZ9HVo/s320/IMG_1254.JPG (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4RHStfLGVe0/UO3YQkFhHkI/AAAAAAAADPY/MfWaStZ9HVo/s1600/IMG_1254.JPG)
Now I just solder the pins to wires there are only 2 inputs and they share negative so that's enough wires


http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MuFdt98D4b4/UO3YRJ954pI/AAAAAAAADPg/39PyQhLO1JY/s320/IMG_1255.JPG (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MuFdt98D4b4/UO3YRJ954pI/AAAAAAAADPg/39PyQhLO1JY/s1600/IMG_1255.JPG)
Also I cut the board no need for it to be so big it will just block back-light and will be in the way of other switches and stuff


http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZJis5LXhUig/UO3YRScybZI/AAAAAAAADPo/lzgzxbFMIIo/s320/IMG_1256.JPG (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZJis5LXhUig/UO3YRScybZI/AAAAAAAADPo/lzgzxbFMIIo/s1600/IMG_1256.JPG)
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-emOaC4bIV5g/UO3YR5RdwPI/AAAAAAAADPw/auELEIdRHyA/s320/IMG_1257.JPG (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-emOaC4bIV5g/UO3YR5RdwPI/AAAAAAAADPw/auELEIdRHyA/s1600/IMG_1257.JPG)
and that's it, ENG and SYS buttons fit from the back so they wont fall out and i didn't even need to glue them to the OMRON switches
The switches in the back are in perfect position and hold the buttons from the back so they won't fall in either.


http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Yu1uFZs7E54/UO3YSIMvZqI/AAAAAAAADP4/37ereyMaFp8/s320/IMG_1258.JPG (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Yu1uFZs7E54/UO3YSIMvZqI/AAAAAAAADP4/37ereyMaFp8/s1600/IMG_1258.JPG)

Too bad I didn't think before I could have made the INOP buttons do something "SECRET" well just make them do something like open door or whatever not realistic but hey.. oh well it can be added later on i didn't have anymore of the switches I only ordered 2.

Starting to look pretty tight inside there but the only thing that's missing is the MON-OFF-MON switch for the fuel reset.


http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q7nHCDLfWr4/UO3cOd4PEXI/AAAAAAAADQg/K_cVOMPPTFA/s320/IMG_1265.JPG (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q7nHCDLfWr4/UO3cOd4PEXI/AAAAAAAADQg/K_cVOMPPTFA/s1600/IMG_1265.JPG)http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--B6B7tJqPHM/UO3c1I7ygTI/AAAAAAAADQo/I_E9OraPIfM/s320/IMG_1261.JPG (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--B6B7tJqPHM/UO3c1I7ygTI/AAAAAAAADQo/I_E9OraPIfM/s1600/IMG_1261.JPG)http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cK9R3eqrLp8/UO3cN1dqt5I/AAAAAAAADQU/qLvnp0Aoyyw/s320/IMG_1264.JPG (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cK9R3eqrLp8/UO3cN1dqt5I/AAAAAAAADQU/qLvnp0Aoyyw/s1600/IMG_1264.JPG)

Andy

[AndyCYXU]

Here is how i made my switches, maybe you will find it helpful or at least get some ideas from it. (http://b737homecockpit.blogspot.ca/2013/02/making-apatfmc-reset-switches.html)
First I marked on a $1.50 PCB board where the connectors from the switch will go so they aligned in center with the bracket and approximate size of the board I will cut it later to size.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TnkYNA1sTU0/URaIN_cLKEI/AAAAAAAADS0/xJn3W7RgWtI/s320/IMG_1303.JPG

The switch i use is KP0115ACBKG03CJB it comes with RED LED inside $3.99.On left is switch with RED LED and on right I removed RED and will Install YELLOW one.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r-9HquF4tT8/URaIOL3nYoI/AAAAAAAADS8/qh5-rVgdo74/s320/IMG_1304.JPG (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r-9HquF4tT8/URaIOL3nYoI/AAAAAAAADS8/qh5-rVgdo74/s1600/IMG_1304.JPG)

You will need to take the switch apart to remove the RED and put yellow in, also you will likely smash the RED while removing it.. oh well.. :)Below is the picture of it once taken apart, there are 2 springs and 4 little glide/slide pins try not to loose them. Then rip out the RED led and put YELLOW in.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E2YA0LUYzhI/URaIO0KcccI/AAAAAAAADTA/rm75ICr5pSc/s320/IMG_1305.JPG (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E2YA0LUYzhI/URaIO0KcccI/AAAAAAAADTA/rm75ICr5pSc/s1600/IMG_1305.JPG)

Once you got your YELLOW led in to put the switch back together install the springs, place the top white part on and put the 4 pins in last into the groves as seen below and last put the holding bracket to keep it together.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9DtwPiogPQQ/URaIQuy60VI/AAAAAAAADTk/XlWU-00QjBM/s320/IMG_1309.JPG (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9DtwPiogPQQ/URaIQuy60VI/AAAAAAAADTk/XlWU-00QjBM/s1600/IMG_1309.JPG)http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BhjyqQcY6Qg/URaIQOk_t8I/AAAAAAAADTU/pCB35kr4eF4/s320/IMG_1308.JPG
DUAL LEDS IN SWITCH

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ufV-KeXEOr0/URaIHYOmT8I/AAAAAAAADRE/dC8MVO4vZgY/s1600/IMG_1284.JPG)If you do not care for dual color switch RED and YELLOW then it much easier, I will explain here how i got them in there. Its kinda a pain i would recommend using rectangular leds but the once i was able to get were very weak "dim" so i chose the bright round ones 3mm LEDS. Also dual LEDS would work nice but idk if they even have them.Same as earlier you will have to take the switch apart then rip the insides of it.Insides include where the original RED led sits and then some of the bottom of switch to give room for 3 legs from the 2 leds to go through.

BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE LITTLE PLASTIC PINS WHERE THE SPRINGS MOUNT.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w8CRNSS4xds/URaITV54EVI/AAAAAAAADUI/c0C4kAO7yBA/s320/IMG_1314.JPG (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w8CRNSS4xds/URaITV54EVI/AAAAAAAADUI/c0C4kAO7yBA/s1600/IMG_1314.JPG)http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wpkzEfcTrnE/URaIS6HaStI/AAAAAAAADUE/i1crOGYhDuk/s320/IMG_1313.JPG (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wpkzEfcTrnE/URaIS6HaStI/AAAAAAAADUE/i1crOGYhDuk/s1600/IMG_1313.JPG)http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JqTjDlbNCb4/URaISH2ceII/AAAAAAAADT0/xwXOJzfsboE/s320/IMG_1312.JPG (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JqTjDlbNCb4/URaISH2ceII/AAAAAAAADT0/xwXOJzfsboE/s1600/IMG_1312.JPG)

Now make the dual LED.I gave them a common NEGATIVE since OPENCOCKPITS Master Card uses negative for outputs as common and switches will go to Master Card it will make one wire harness and they will go all together to master card. If you want to use USB Outputs card for leds you would need to make the POSITIVE common.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yCz4xgCULr8/URaIPVvm8vI/AAAAAAAADTM/NJC6vXNmHms/s320/IMG_1306.JPG (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yCz4xgCULr8/URaIPVvm8vI/AAAAAAAADTM/NJC6vXNmHms/s1600/IMG_1306.JPG)

Simply solder the NEGATIVE together place them as close as possible it is a little pain fitting them in the switch but once there they work great.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SFMJihu8P-Y/URaISVZVGqI/AAAAAAAADT4/X6INg2A64WA/s320/IMG_1311.JPG (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SFMJihu8P-Y/URaISVZVGqI/AAAAAAAADT4/X6INg2A64WA/s1600/IMG_1311.JPG)http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wAgQOGPgfbQ/URaIKIOhKGI/AAAAAAAADR4/u1bfc7eyhzE/s320/IMG_1292.JPG (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wAgQOGPgfbQ/URaIKIOhKGI/AAAAAAAADR4/u1bfc7eyhzE/s1600/IMG_1292.JPG)

Here you can see them put back together with both leds inside the AP and AT switches test that switch moves well when you press it that it comes back freely.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dYhdo_oPtEA/URaIWo94V1I/AAAAAAAADU0/mE5KAJfdjL4/s320/IMG_1320.JPG (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dYhdo_oPtEA/URaIWo94V1I/AAAAAAAADU0/mE5KAJfdjL4/s1600/IMG_1320.JPG)

Then solder them to keep them in placeOn the left is switch with just one LED and on the right is the one I just made with 2 LEDS, center is common and its a NEGATIVE

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6lYeQlHp87c/URaIRYof_4I/AAAAAAAADTs/7DXMX-JrSak/s320/IMG_1310.JPG (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6lYeQlHp87c/URaIRYof_4I/AAAAAAAADTs/7DXMX-JrSak/s1600/IMG_1310.JPG)

Below all 3 switches are soldered together and resistors are applied as well to NEGATIVE. I used 330 Ohm for the Single LED and 160 Ohm for the dual so they are brighter minimum you should use 150 Ohm.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QHl4w_bcLrs/URaIVIGEXsI/AAAAAAAADUg/4VfQ-zc912s/s320/IMG_1317.JPG (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QHl4w_bcLrs/URaIVIGEXsI/AAAAAAAADUg/4VfQ-zc912s/s1600/IMG_1317.JPG)http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xL4cm787wsY/URaIT6zxlYI/AAAAAAAADUU/gyWRJJQYzeY/s320/IMG_1315.JPG (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xL4cm787wsY/URaIT6zxlYI/AAAAAAAADUU/gyWRJJQYzeY/s1600/IMG_1315.JPG)

Here you can see where resistors are placed on the other side of the PCB board

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DA3HYmJ9WzM/URaIInP2StI/AAAAAAAADRk/v0pjlAuYXsQ/s320/IMG_1289.JPG (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DA3HYmJ9WzM/URaIInP2StI/AAAAAAAADRk/v0pjlAuYXsQ/s1600/IMG_1289.JPG)http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wpha32zZDmY/URaIJjhgilI/AAAAAAAADRw/luf4foe8GgY/s320/IMG_1291.JPG (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wpha32zZDmY/URaIJjhgilI/AAAAAAAADRw/luf4foe8GgY/s1600/IMG_1291.JPG)
Here I connected the actual switch part.Black is COMMON and then Yellow is the other part so connections togther.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3DDZqTQnQII/URaIV27OoWI/AAAAAAAADUs/NANSrbWTvmg/s320/IMG_1318.JPG (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3DDZqTQnQII/URaIV27OoWI/AAAAAAAADUs/NANSrbWTvmg/s1600/IMG_1318.JPG)

Here are the connection for the LEDs 5 LEDS and black is commonyou could make an actual circuit board but since i am making only 2 of those i just use good old fashion wires.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Yk4vxvp8jRA/URaIW6WBxJI/AAAAAAAADU4/ln-ZHv1x_as/s320/IMG_1319.JPG (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Yk4vxvp8jRA/URaIW6WBxJI/AAAAAAAADU4/ln-ZHv1x_as/s1600/IMG_1319.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SDY75sZfWLc/URaIHU4RCsI/AAAAAAAADRI/F6XyOZqJJ9s/s1600/IMG_1285.JPG)

and here is a finished product.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dYhdo_oPtEA/URaIWo94V1I/AAAAAAAADU0/mE5KAJfdjL4/s320/IMG_1320.JPG (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dYhdo_oPtEA/URaIWo94V1I/AAAAAAAADU0/mE5KAJfdjL4/s1600/IMG_1320.JPG)

Then it gets mounted behind the MIP your choice how you mount it.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-46yygoBunbU/URaIMQ83t_I/AAAAAAAADSc/sHT3DqcaNMs/s320/IMG_1298.JPG (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-46yygoBunbU/URaIMQ83t_I/AAAAAAAADSc/sHT3DqcaNMs/s1600/IMG_1298.JPG)http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BzMKYVytpL8/URaIMzch5cI/AAAAAAAADSs/42vvPTfMwY4/s320/IMG_1299.JPG (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BzMKYVytpL8/URaIMzch5cI/AAAAAAAADSs/42vvPTfMwY4/s1600/IMG_1299.JPG)

Total cost of the whole thing was maybe $25-30 tops, it was fun making it too, you would need the front panel from OPENCOCKPITS also of course its not that expensive comes as a set with all Captain Panels.

Unfortunatelly at the moment with PMDG737NGX I have found no way to make the RED/YELLOW acctivate as they should depending on situation in the actual SIM, so i just program RED for the AP and AT and YELLOW for the FMC, FMC is YELLOW only anyways.

I think it is possible with IFly and other suites maybe but i do not own them so I am not sure, but I decided to make dual colors if i decide to change sim that i use.

[visualchaosfx]

Nice!! This is lookin real good man :)

[AndyCYXU]

added back light to MCP and finally made a short circle flight without crashing and landing on the runway not beside it :lol:

Rwy 23 TO and visual landing same Rwy just to check it out.


http://youtu.be/XQADrfe62h8

[AndyCYXU]

Less building more playing can`t wait for my overhead to arrive it will make it so much more playable


http://youtu.be/ylIxNYtxArI

[AndyCYXU]

Finally an overhead panel almost half way done.

Wiring is the hardest part so far i have got wired uhm.. i don't recall i think around 70+ switches that is 144 inputs...as many switches have actually 2 or more positions that's why so many actual inputs...

so far used approximately 150 feet of wire, that's not too bad and seems my soldering skills are improving lol...





laid down on the floor after opening the box

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nV2NA8AR9x8/UXNHds-jWOI/AAAAAAAADWQ/b-FRZ_7DhiY/s320/IMG_1490.JPG (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nV2NA8AR9x8/UXNHds-jWOI/AAAAAAAADWQ/b-FRZ_7DhiY/s1600/IMG_1490.JPG)


started putting it all together




http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OsaAek5sBdY/UXNHda_KMXI/AAAAAAAADWM/lNXguJCbpvc/s320/IMG_1500.JPG (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OsaAek5sBdY/UXNHda_KMXI/AAAAAAAADWM/lNXguJCbpvc/s1600/IMG_1500.JPG)


i dont like that its a rectangle i will try later maybe i can match the shape on the bottom where the landing lights panels are...




http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gUKTd3B-c3k/UXNHeP0v4XI/AAAAAAAADWc/NmYo2S5X63w/s320/IMG_1504.JPG (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gUKTd3B-c3k/UXNHeP0v4XI/AAAAAAAADWc/NmYo2S5X63w/s1600/IMG_1504.JPG)


first shot at wiring the bottom landing light switches i since decided to use separate wires they are much easier to work with then the ribbon cable mostly because they are 22 Gau vs. 26 or 28 Gau that this ribon cable was very hard to work with and solder and everything else...




http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vq1qIoRAK3Q/UXNHe0DOjrI/AAAAAAAADWo/pPMTFBS5lBo/s320/IMG_1505.JPG (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vq1qIoRAK3Q/UXNHe0DOjrI/AAAAAAAADWo/pPMTFBS5lBo/s1600/IMG_1505.JPG)


Here i decided to use the regular solid-core wire 22Gau and it was much easier and ended up looking not too bad IMO...




http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RP9QHOBd4Lc/UXNHe1Om2iI/AAAAAAAADWk/Y4M367nLG_U/s320/IMG_1508.JPG (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RP9QHOBd4Lc/UXNHe1Om2iI/AAAAAAAADWk/Y4M367nLG_U/s1600/IMG_1508.JPG)


Not quite there yet but getting there...




http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w6x6JOaxINQ/UXNHfquC5QI/AAAAAAAADW0/Tovtnfl6mc4/s320/IMG_1511.JPG (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w6x6JOaxINQ/UXNHfquC5QI/AAAAAAAADW0/Tovtnfl6mc4/s1600/IMG_1511.JPG)

Panel is from prosimparts.. well maybe i make a review of it one day in a short :

for value (what you get for you money) is 9 out of 10

but if you looking for quality and can afford quality you will be disappointed i can only compare it to open cockpits panels that i have and assuming their OVH panels would be the same quality as the few MIP panels I own from OC they are way superior to those from PROSIMPARTS for additional 350-400 EUROS i believe that open-cockpits would be superior in finish compared to PROSIMPARTS, however as mentioned it comes with extra cost :p. All in all PROSIM does say they are "BUDGET" meant and they do feel "BUDGET" so on their quality compared to OC i can only give them 3 out of 10 :(.

for quality 3 out of 10

That being said I am not disappointed that I bought it, I started taking real Private Pilot course and with the cost associated with this I am happy I saved myself 350 EUROS :D, and put that towards real flying lessons... 2 lessons...:shock: ... well still two 1 hour flight instructions :?..

So if you are on a budget and 350-400 euros is not exactly pocket change for you then I would say go for it once put together framed with care it looks very nice, if however you like perfection you will be sad, so better of invest few extra $$$ and get higher quality.

some SIOC to make it work in my blog help yourself browse around..

AndyCYXU