How to make a simple switch panel

[editusername]

Hi!

I have been thinking about making a simple switch panel, with simple controls like landing lights on/off, gear up/down and so on.

As the most common switches (on-on, on-off) seem to have 3 legs, how do I solder them to the USB control board? I haven't found a solution from the internet.
I've surfed all around this forum and found some interesting link, but the closest result was instruction on "how to program the controller for switches and potentiometers".

Thanks in advance and if it really happens, thanks for fast replys.

[No Longer Active]

Most switches such as toggles such as the SPST Toggle just have 2 legs (1 leg for on and 1 for off). As for a DPST toggle switch it will have 3 legs (ON-OFF-ON) So just connect leg one to input one on controller, then leg 2 to Ground, then leg 3 to input 2 on controller. To connect a simple SPST toggle to a controller, just connect leg one to input one, and leg 2 to Ground.

The same goes for the 2 bit rotary encoder, just connect leg 1 of the encoder to input1 then leg 2 to ground, then leg3 to input 2. Now you have a nice rotary encoder that acts as a switch.

Hope this help!

[editusername]

Thanks!

That opened up the things.

And the programming is like this?
http://www.lekseecon.nl/howto.html#onOffSPST

The 2-leg switch is like on-off, so can it be made to be gear up-down?

[No Longer Active]

Hi there.
Using SIOC is just one way to configure switches to OC Master cards, but personally I would go for leo bodnar cards to use switches, because Leo has developed an easy push-in-wire board, easy to configure, lots of inputs and no programming required. FSUIPC works a treat with his boards.

[editusername]

Got any links? I'm getting excited:D

[No Longer Active]

Here is the website. Leo Bodnar is a global name is flight sim I/O boards:

http://www.leobodnar.com/products/BU0836X/

http://www.leobodnar.com/products/BU0836/

[editusername]

'Will take a look. Thanks!

[editusername]

Seems to be the one I've been looking for. I got the potentiometer part, but not the buttons really.

If I solder buttons from row 1 to columns 1-6, do I get 6 working buttons, then solder row 2 to columns 1-6, do I then have 12 working buttons?

Thanks again!

[No Longer Active]

Yep...you got it!

You can also get 32 buttons out of the smaller card by wiring them in matrix mode!

[editusername]

Cool... I'll order one of those and try it out. Thanks a lot!

P.S. One last question, does the 2-legged on-off switch put gear up/down, lights on/off and so on?

[No Longer Active]

Gear up and down I would use a DPST toggle, as you would need 1 pole for gear up and another pole for gear down. For lights just use a SPST toggle (on off)....

Cheers Alex

PS. If you want to turn on LED's etc you will need an OUTPUT card, everything we have been talking about today is INPUT related.

[Nick1150]

Interesting thread :cool:

Given that I would like to do the same thing with the overhead lights panel (no rattaries or pottentiometers) , which card fits the job ?

[editusername]

The input card site tells that I can attach a led to the switch, see this image:
http://www.leobodnar.com/products/BU0836/6x6.png

[editusername]

BTW do I need those pin connectors? I'd save 5 pounds by not taking them with the card.
http://www.leobodnar.com/products/BU0836A/connectors.jpg

[No Longer Active]

no no no dont attach led's to this card, you will blow up the card my friend. You cant use LED's with the card. The diagram which you showed me from the leo bodnar site is showing the electrical symbol for diodes...not LED's.....

Believe me and the rest of this forum (including leo himself) you cant attach led's to the card....I cant stress that enough!

[No Longer Active]

Given that I would like to do the same thing with the overhead lights panel (no rattaries or pottentiometers) , which card fits the job ?

Go for the leo bodnar BU0836X card, plenty of outputs, many 737 builders use 2 or 3 of the leo bodnar cards in the O/H.

[editusername]

Thanks for the reply again! I think I'll start with the input card and move on to the I/O card If I feel like it once the current project is finished :)
How about the pin connectors? Are they spring-release system like in the bigger card? The image isn't very good and I am not very sure what "pin connector" actually means as I am not very familiar with english electronics terms (Being a 15 old guy from Finland...)

[No Longer Active]

With the BU0836 CARD (Cheaper card) it comes with some headers, you solder your wires to the header and then push the header over the pins on the card!

Alex

[editusername]

So that prevents me from accidentally destroying the card while soldering? That would be more suitable for me than the cheaper without them; I like to minimize the risks.

[ANDYSMITH]

Hi, If you even think you might have more than 12 switches I would go with the more expensive X card. Not having to deal with a diode matrix will save you a lot of time and headache. My first card was the inexpensive one and I thought I was doing good because I can solder, and I have a bin full of diodes. Still have a bin full of diodes and 7 more cards, all "X" cards and worth every penny.

Andy

[smendlik]

...PS. If you want to turn on LED's etc you will need an OUTPUT card, everything we have been talking about today is INPUT related.

Could you show me where to find an easy to use and reasonably priced output card in case I want to light up LED's when the switch is turned on?

Thank you!

[Boeing 747 Flyer]

Well, you might not need an output Card if the LED directly corresponds with a switch, you could just wire it in Series with the switch in a circuit.

However, if it is something like an LNAV Light Switch, which only illuminates in certian conditions, then an output card may be required.

The Opencockpits Master Card is a simple solution, but requires SIOC Scripting knowledge:

http://www.opencockpits.com/catalog/master-card-p-29.html?cPath=21_27

[No Longer Active]

There are plenty of reasonably priced led output cards on the market, but 'easy to use' is not generally in the same sentence. Hooking led's is easy but getting them to light up with fs is another thing.

SIOC you would use for OC led cards. Cost 55 euros
http://www.opencockpits.com/catalog/electronic-cards-iocards-outputs-lampsleds-c-21_44.html

FS2Phidgets is something you can look up for use with phidgets cards. Cost $80.00
http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?category=0&product_id=1018

Simkits has a great multi controller that is both input and output and requires no programming but manly designed for GA use. It costs 119 euros. http://simkits.com/product.php?prodid=343

For ease of use I would go with the simkits card, but mainly for GA use and costs 119 euros.

[editusername]

Hello again!

Here is my plan for it, but I'm not sure do some parts work as intended.
http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/dd331/cnopicilin/switches.png?t=1280471661

[Jordan Farmer]

hi, i looked at the image, it looks very good, but my recommendation for the engine witches would be a 4 position rotary witch, rather than a pot, much easier to program in SIOC i expect! This is the switch type and this one is fairly good for the application, 30 deg turn is approx the right distance for that kind of switch, anyway, take a look and see what you think! (From the Finnish farnell) ;)

http://fi.farnell.com/lorlin/ck1026/switch-3pole-4-pos/dp/1123704

Hope this helps, Jordan

[editusername]

That's what I was looking for, now I'll just have to figure out how do I attach the panel to my desk with velcro tape so it does not eat much of my stomach and leg space.

[Bjarne Horsbøl]

Gear up and down I would use a DPST toggle, as you would need 1 pole for gear up and another pole for gear down. For lights just use a SPST toggle (on off)....


DPST does not mean an on-off-on switch. It tells you it is a a double pole single throw switch.


Look here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switch

Normally a SPST is fine for on-off (single pole single throw )
But if you like to connect a LED in it´s own circuit , buy a DPST (double pole single throw)

if you need a on-off-on it is called SPCO (single pole center of)
and if you like to connect a LED in it´s own circuit , buy a DPCO (double pole center off)








:)
Bjarne

BTW. Here a link to how to connect a LED´s to Leo´s card (by Leo himself) http://www.leobodnar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4

[hexpope]

Also another tip, which can save you your inputs on the card, "IF YOU HAVE FSUIPC" is:

If you just have a switch which is on/off, you can use just one input on the card and one GND. (Lets use gear up / down for example)

Switch up will activate gear up. Now, if you look in the FSUIPC settings (Buttons+Switches) tab, you will also see a function that pete has implemented First is.

When you switch the toggle switch up, you can program it to "gear up" or just gear etc or what ever your doing. In the field of ("control sent when button pressed")

Now, if it's the gear that you want to retract, that means, that the button will stay in the position of "up" until you want to lower your landing gear, when on final.

then look just below in FSUIPC where you programmed the first function for the switch up. You should see another field called (Control Sent When Button Released) now select that to gear down or what ever you wish.

So what this means, is. When you release (AKA, turn the position of the switch to down, it releases the command for gear up, and you can program it to what ever you wish inside FSUIPC/ FS (AKA, toggle gear etc)

This method saved inputs for me by carring out this method with many functions.

Note there is limitation to the about of switches you can have on at one time, I would suggest the X version of the the card. No diodes, or matrix etc and minus the limitations.

If you don't have FSUIPC, then I suggest you purchase it. In my mind, first comes flight simulator, second addon is FSUIPC.

Also, read up on the Macro section of FSUIPC.

[editusername]

Hello again!

I just got my card, it is a great one!
Just plug it in and all the buttons work.

I'm going to the electronics shop to buy some switches and diodes& 2 potentiometers.

I made a new plan for the panel, now it has some better textures:
http://s529.photobucket.com/albums/dd331/cnopicilin/?action=view&current=PANEELIV2.png

My plan features the white parts as alpha channel and I am going to print it on a transparency and put leds behind it
=white parts glowing as orange

[editusername]

Hello again!

I just soldered 6 buttons in and it works like charm!
How do I program the FSUIPC to recognize them as on-off switch?

Thanks!

[editusername]

Never mind got it working.

[Nick1150]

Can you lead us the way too? I am planing to do the same thing :D

[mofamofamofa]

Hi,

Any ideas how to connect these illuminated push buttons to leo's X joy stick controllers bearing in mind that the LED requires 5v. Does it need a resistor or it can be connected directly to the 5v outlet.

http://in2amusements.com.au/products/Square_Illuminated_White_Arcade_Button-54-0.html

Regards,

[Leo Bodnar]

Hi,
Any ideas how to connect these illuminated push buttons to leo's X joy stick controllers bearing in mind that the LED requires 5v. Does it need a resistor or it can be connected directly to the 5v outlet.
http://in2amusements.com.au/products/Square_Illuminated_White_Arcade_Button-54-0.html
Regards,
Hi,
If this button has two independent connections for the LED then it is not a problem. You connect it as
+5V====[+LED-]====B1====[switch]====GND
If it states that it needs 5v for the LED then it has a current limiting resistor inside the housing or inside the LED itself.
Cheers
Leo

[mofamofamofa]

Hi,

Hi,

Actually this switch has three connections, one for the LED the second for the switch input and the third is common ground. It is stated that 5 V DC is required to power the LED. So where does this leave us ? One more thing, how many such switches can be connected to the board?

Regards,

Fahmy

[mofamofamofa]

I was thinking of connecting the switch in the following way:

External 5V power supply ---------> LED input
joystick controller ----------> switch input

Ground of the switch (which is coming from both the switch and the button ) --------> Ground of the board,

In this case the if the switch is pressed on, this will close the circuit executing the command of the button and at the same time will turn on the LED,

What do you think, am I going to fry the board if I do that ?

Regards,

[mofamofamofa]

Sorry for all the confusion, I managed to get the wiring scheme of the switch as well as the terminals

The terminals go as follows:

Terminal (1) : power , in this case 5V DC
Terminal (2) : accessory, the object we want to connect the power to
Terminal (3): ground, i.e LED ground

So, if we want to use the switch as a simple SPST (ON/OFF) switch, it is sufficient to connect between

B1 (board side) ----------> Terminal (1) switch side
Terminal (2) switch side ---------> ground (board side)

Whereas to light up the LED when the switch is turned to ON position we have to ground the LED, i.e

connect Terminal (3) switch side to a ground in order to complete the circuit of the LED

Now two question arise,
1- Is the power coming from the board is 5V DC, if yes, then it is going to be sufficient to light up the LED
2- Where can I ground the LED, i.e. connect terminal (3) switch side

I would be very grateful if you answer me LEO since I have been surfing the web during the past couple of days to find an answer but all are talking about automotive 12 V DC SPST illuminated switches, in this case the power is known which is 12 V from the battery and the ground is known which is the ground of the battery, i.e the vehicle's body,

Best Regards,
Fahmy

[Leo Bodnar]

1- Is the power coming from the board is 5V DC, if yes, then it is going to be sufficient to light up the LED
2- Where can I ground the LED, i.e. connect terminal (3) switch side
Hi,
If switch is designed to be continuously lit up then it would be difficult to make it light up only in "ON" position. You would need to break internal link between the LED anode (+) and switch terminal and connect the cathode (-) instead.
But anyway,
1) yes, all terminals marked "+5V" on the BU0836X are connected to the same source - USB power. It is supposed to be close to 5V.
2) you can connect it to any terminal marked "GND" on BU0836X - they all connect to zero Volts reference.
Cheers
Leo

[mofamofamofa]

Hi,

Thanks a lot for you quick answer, :)

Regards,
Fahmy

[super2277]

Hello again!

I just got my card, it is a great one!
Just plug it in and all the buttons work.

I'm going to the electronics shop to buy some switches and diodes& 2 potentiometers.

I made a new plan for the panel, now it has some better textures:
http://s529.photobucket.com/albums/dd331/cnopicilin/?action=view&current=PANEELIV2.png

My plan features the white parts as alpha channel and I am going to print it on a transparency and put leds behind it
=white parts glowing as orange

hey how card you use?

[editusername]

Do you have the same card as I do?

[super2277]

Do you have the same card as I do?

no i dont have buy no card so whata a card for i should have bekose i ill have gear with micro switch and build MIP with switch?

[editusername]

Sorry, but I don't understand you really well.

So you haven't bought a card yet?
Are you going to use only simple on-off switches?

If yes then buy this one:
http://www.leobodnar.com/products/BU0836/

[super2277]

i think i will use this landing gear
http://www.sim-737ng.com/train/train.htm
with thaht micro switsh

[editusername]

Hello again!

I would like to know how do I separate the texts and other white stuff as white and turn everything else to black in this picture for masks:

http://s529.photobucket.com/albums/dd331/cnopicilin/?action=view&current=PANEELIV2.png

Thanks!