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Kennair
02-09-2009, 12:58 AM
Well I've finally go my overhead done (well the panels anyway). I decided to make my own panels using Acrylic plexiglass and labels printed on my inkjet. This method is certainly not new and has been suggested/documented before but I never really could get a satisfactory result. I ended up using A4 size self adhesive printing label paper. One for a top layer and another as a black mask underneath. Simple, easy and cheap! And I'm very pleased with the backlighting ability, although the panel edges still need sealing. It was so easy I uploaded another tutorial for others wishing to go this road.

Here are some pix of the progress and completion.

Ken.

Michael Carter
02-09-2009, 01:09 AM
Very nice results and the same method I used for the single panel I made.

I bought a stall warning panel two years ago that didn't have a lightplate, but I got it cheap and thought it would give me a chance to experiment.

It worked out OK. I woudn't do it again, but it worked.

Try some extremely thin strips of closed-cell foam for the light leakage between the mounting screws either on the panel or on the overhead frame.

autocadplease
02-09-2009, 01:13 AM
Thanks a million for sharing! Great tutorial!
I'm just starting my overhead and was going to try this approach.

Kennair
02-09-2009, 01:18 AM
My main gripe with using this method is my inability to cut straight lines with a bandsaw. The result is some of the panel edges are a bit wonky! I tried using an edging bit on my router but it hacks the edges too much and looks worse. Any tips on that front would be welcome. Being overhead you really can't notice but I wouldn't want them staring at me on a glareshield or MIP. Still more work to do on it not least of which is wiring up the switches so it actually works!

Ken.

Michael Carter
02-09-2009, 01:24 AM
The best solution I can think of is to cut outside the lines with the bandsaw and hand file the rest of the way. When I was still building panels I'd always cut a 1/16" outside the line and hand file it to get it smooth before sanding the edges.

It's tedious, but it's worth it for the results.

I didn't see any problems with the panels in the photos except for the light leakage. They all looked great.

Tony Hill
02-09-2009, 02:15 AM
Ken,

The night lighting looks great. What livery are you flying with the PC12. Is it RFDS?

cheers


.

Kennair
02-09-2009, 03:08 AM
Thanks Mike but I am envious of your patience. Cut & run is my motto ;) However as I said in the overhead you don't notice the jags (but I know they're their). Once the edges are sealed and proper backlighting installed (I was just using a home fluro for the pix) I reckon it'll bit a beaut!!

And Darryl, yes I'm using the RFDS liver of VH-MWO done by Jason Rivard. I also have VWO repaint by Mozz Graphics over at VOZ. Both Perth girls of course.

Ken.

Westozy
02-09-2009, 03:50 AM
Hi Ken, I'm just going to have to come and see this beasty!

Gwyn

Tony Hill
02-09-2009, 03:51 AM
bit a beaut!!

And Darryl, yes I'm using the RFDS liver of VH-MWO done by Jason Rivard. I also have VWO repaint by Mozz Graphics over at VOZ. Both Perth girls of course.




And lovely young ladies too!! Legs up to there, climb like homesick angels and that kero perfume that drives me wild.....

D

Kennair
02-09-2009, 03:55 AM
Hi Ken, I'm just going to have to come and see this beasty!

Gwyn

Anytime Gwyn just let me know.

And Darryl, very poetic and I totally agree (which is a worry:))

Ken.

andarlite
02-09-2009, 10:28 AM
My main gripe with using this method is my inability to cut straight lines with a bandsaw. The result is some of the panel edges are a bit wonky! I tried using an edging bit on my router but it hacks the edges too much and looks worse. Any tips on that front would be welcome. Being overhead you really can't notice but I wouldn't want them staring at me on a glareshield or MIP. Still more work to do on it not least of which is wiring up the switches so it actually works!

Ken.

Hi Ken

My best friend for cutting a nice straight line is a metal straightedge. I clamp it to the cut line and use it as a guide for the saw (I usually cut with a hand saw). The one I have is thick steel and there's no way a saw blade will cut into it so I will always get a panel with a straight cut.

To fix your current panels what you could try is clamp the straightedge to the panel edge and then use a dremel with a sanding disk to "straighten" them out. Run the sanding disk quickly and lightly back and forth using the straightedge as a guide. You can do the finishing touches by hand with a file or sanding block.

Regards,
Henry