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Kennair
05-02-2008, 10:57 AM
Well I think I've jagged it. After unsuccessfully trying to manufacture yoke bearings using plumbing fittings I lashed out and bought pillow block bearings to do the job properly and the result is more than pleasing. Dual yokes move in unison with absolutely no play due to the bearings and simple wire trace connection between the two (idea pinched from Gwyn).

Here are a few pix with more on my website and in the photo gallery here. I've also made a short video of them in action which you'll find on my website.

Gad it's great when it comes together!

Ken.

Tomlin
05-02-2008, 11:21 AM
Ken, this is brilliant. Thank you for sharing the photos, as it's a really cool idea and I can see that it's the simplicity that makes it work so well.

Thanks!

mpl330
05-02-2008, 11:31 AM
Looks great and by the look from the video the action looks really smooth too - Very Nice!

andarlite
05-02-2008, 11:33 AM
Ken,what a very clever design. It always amazes me the creative thinking that takes place in this hobby. Way to go.

Regards,
Henry

Joe Cygan
05-02-2008, 12:06 PM
Ken this is a great design.

Fantastic!

Joe

QF6228
05-02-2008, 08:13 PM
That looks great, Awesome engineering.

Damien

XOrionFE
05-03-2008, 08:12 AM
This is just what I have been looking for. I have been gathering up parts (aluminum tube, threaded rod, Aluminimum angle pieces, springs, etc. to build my own yoke to replace my CH yoke which I really dont like. I have been researching the various builds out there and this by far is the most simple and elegant design I have seen. Using the pillow bearings in conjunction with drawer slides is ingenious. It can easily be adapted to a single yoke setup. Thanks a bunch for sharing. Now I just have to find where to get those pillow blocks.

Scott

Bob Reed
05-03-2008, 09:38 AM
Try a good automotive parts store or a tractor parts store. One of them will have them.

Mike.Powell
05-03-2008, 11:04 AM
Now I just have to find where to get those pillow blocks.

Scott

If you can't find them locally, Enco and MSC Industrial supply are possibilities.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=971&PARTPG=INLMK3&PMITEM=325-7596

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH?PMSECT=2007308

Kennair
05-03-2008, 11:11 AM
Scott, glad to be of help. That's what this place is all about. I can give you the online address of the place I bought my bearings but they're in Brisbane so shipping my be costly, however you'll get them at any engineering supplier. Take care though as there are g-zillion sizes and types. I bought 25.4mm inside diameter as appose to 25mm due to having 1" tubing and they were a perfect fit. Had I got 25mm they would have been too small. Obviously if you can take your tube into them and try before you buy the better. Good luck.

Dieter, explain more about the trimming system?

Ken.

XOrionFE
05-03-2008, 11:26 AM
Thanks

I found a somewhat local supplier as well as a local tractor supply (Farm and Fleet) that carries them. I will be making a trip tonight!

Also found a pair of yokes on Ebay I won for $30.00. They are EADS Sokata yokes but should work fine.

I will send some pictures once finished.

Thanks again!

Kennair
05-04-2008, 08:23 AM
Thanks Dieter,

I'll try to understand.

Ken.

Michael Carter
05-04-2008, 09:18 AM
This is just what I have been looking for. I have been gathering up parts (aluminum tube, threaded rod, Aluminimum angle pieces, springs, etc. to build my own yoke to replace my CH yoke which I really dont like. I have been researching the various builds out there and this by far is the most simple and elegant design I have seen. Using the pillow bearings in conjunction with drawer slides is ingenious. It can easily be adapted to a single yoke setup. Thanks a bunch for sharing. Now I just have to find where to get those pillow blocks.

Scott

McMaster-Carr out of Chicago has all sorts of parts like this. They also have precision slides, millions of different bearings, etc., etc.

Nice job on the yoke setup. Looks great!

warvet
05-04-2008, 10:56 AM
Ken,
As you know Im not a Boeing guy but Dang Sir you nailed that better than any other design I ever saw before in all my years in this hobby. Great job! Just wondering how are you managing the pitch a Potentiometer I figure?

Tim
A340

Kennair
05-04-2008, 11:43 AM
Thanks Tim. I noticed after coming up with this design that I found another builder with the same idea of using drawer slides. He was building a Baron B58 but using all metal construction (he was obviously an engineer of some sort). So these ideas must be out in the ether waiting to be plucked!

Yes both pitch and roll are using pots. I've only today completed both mechanisms along with some aileron stops so the yokes don't spin out of control. New pics will be added to the photo section soon. Once again I stress; I cannot describe the smooth but slightly dampened feel of these yokes. I went flying last week in a C172 and mine feels so much better :)

Ken.

AndyT
05-04-2008, 01:31 PM
Dieter,

In your drawing, that only puts angled tension on the yoke shaft from what I see. Is that how you had meant it? Perhaps I'm not reading it correctly.

warvet
05-04-2008, 03:14 PM
Damn you guys are smart,
Like they say if the girls dont find ya ya Handsome they can sure find ya handy lol :) it just so happens they find us airbus guys both but hey handy is good too :) Nah jjking I go to guys like you to ge my stuff made like that :) Keep up awesome work.

Tim
A340

AndyT
05-05-2008, 02:34 AM
Ok, I see what you mean. I have a similar idea on that but its a bit more complex. Mine has the advantage of being as flat as possible.
I'll re-draw it and post it here.

elekwind
05-05-2008, 03:32 PM
Hi Ken

I'm still not sure if I understand how the yokes work. I am a daily visitor to your webpage. I haved looked at all the drawings and read everything on your dual yoke setup.As I can see you are using pillow block bearings, right.If you push the yoke forward or move them backward will the shaft that goes through the bearings not slide through causing the piece of wood where they mounted on just to stand still and have no effect on the other yoke? Sorry for bothering you with this question, hope you guys can help me understand.:roll:

Thanks

Ralton

Kennair
05-06-2008, 03:03 AM
That's fine Ralton,

It is often difficult to explain all details with static images and text so I'll try to give you more detail.

The two yoke shafts are locked into the bearings with grub screws so the shaft only rotates in the lateral plane (aileron movement). The two yoke shafts and bearings are mounted onto a base timber section (white melamine) which moves back and forward as one when you push and pull the yokes for pitch (elevator movement). This base section is mounted on two heavy duty drawer slides to provide this coordinated movement. Springs then provide elevator centering.

Think of it as a large desk drawer with your two yokes attached to the front, when you push and pull the drawer the yokes move in and out. Mine of course is much more fantastic and marvelous than this ;)

I hope that explains adequately.

Ken.

elekwind
05-06-2008, 12:23 PM
Hi Ken

Thanks for the reply. I understand exactly how the yokes work after your explanation. Wow what a fantastic concept !!!!

Your site is really helpful and a inspiration to many builders.

Thanks

Ralton

XOrionFE
05-06-2008, 07:45 PM
Just saw the final hookup pictures on your site. I love the legos!!

I have mine (single version) just about done and will post pics up here soon.

Scott

cscotthendry
05-07-2008, 06:14 PM
Ken:

I'm guessing that you are referring to my 'pit. I'm only a wannabe engineer.:) But yes, mine was made from metal and looks remarkably like yours. "Great minds think alike." Mine is made from metal as I was teaching myself to weld at the time. Welders are relatively cheap and you can make a lot of very strong stuff easily. If you look at my 'pit, you'll see that most of the early work is welded steel.

Kennair
05-07-2008, 10:12 PM
Hi Scott,

Yes you're the one. Sorry for making the assumption about the engineer but your metal work looked so pro. Nice Job. Love the BendixKing radios too. There aren't many of us GA dual pit builders around compared to the heavies. I think I've found 3 others on the net so far. Plenty of single pits however.

BTW. What welder did you buy? I have been considering this purchase for some time due to the light weight and strength for building the exterior structure. I was looking at a small 100 amp Mig.

Ken.

Michael Carter
05-07-2008, 11:05 PM
You can get a wire-feed welder for under a C note at Sears and not worry about the gas.

The only disadvntage is the amount of slag they produce. It's almost like an arc welder in that regard. But if you can live with the slag, it's cheaper and just as good as a mig without the cost of the gas.

Michael Carter
05-07-2008, 11:06 PM
You can get a wire-feed welder for under a C note at Sears and not worry about the gas.

The only disadvntage is the amount of slag they produce. It's almost like an arc welder in that regard. But if you can live with the slag, it's cheaper and just as good as a mig without the cost of the gas.


Sorry, I forgot you were in Australia. Any good hardware store Down Under should have something similar to Craftsman.

cscotthendry
05-07-2008, 11:33 PM
Ken:

I just used a stinky old stick welder. Cheap, but effective, although it took me a while to get the knack. They tell me that MIG is better with the light stuff, so if I was in the market for a welder, I'd probably go that way too. I didn't notice when I was looking at your posts that your from waussie. I'm in brissie. g'day.

Kennair
05-08-2008, 01:49 AM
Yeah thanks BSW. I was looking at a gasless wire-feed MIG due to those qualities. Gas MIG's are better as far as I'm aware but the cost of gas refills for the amount I would use it just isn't worth it.

Scott, yes a WA boy! Got family over your way though. A plain old arc welder hey, I'll have to do more investigating.

Thanks again,

Ken.

Michael Carter
05-08-2008, 02:15 AM
Well, that's why I couldn't justify a Mig. I just don't do that much welding unless I absolutley have to.

I have a good chipping hammer though!;)

cscotthendry
05-08-2008, 02:19 AM
Ken:

An arc welder and looooooooooottsss of grinding ;-)

Michael Carter
05-08-2008, 03:31 AM
A 4" or 7.5" angle grinder makes small and fast work of anything visible.

I rough cut 1/8" aluminum with a 7.5" angle grinder with a cut-off wheel installed. Goes thought it like a hot knife through butter. Looks like the 4th of July in the shop. :D

A bit primitive and not as nice as CNC, but that's what they make files for.

warvet
05-08-2008, 04:15 AM
Scott,
WOW!! Holy Crap Man, that has got to be one of the nicest most professional friggin GA setups I have ever seen! I mean wow the bendix stack the rudders etc its is really a beautiful job Scott. Normally Im a heavy airbus man 100% but after seeing the guys commenting on your setup I had to go take a BOO and DANG! that is really great work. Wish I had 1/2 that talent your certainly an inspiration to alot of builders Im sure. good On Ya Mate!

Tim
A340
Canada

cscotthendry
05-08-2008, 03:56 PM
Tim:

Wow! thanks for the compliment.:D

Actually, I cheated with the pedals, I bought some Beechcraft ones, but I made the linkage AND the toe brake cylinders. Actually, I bought the pedals from Kenny Faeth. Anyone who watches Mythbusters will know Kenny. He's a straight up guy and very friendly. If you contact him, tell him I reccomended him.

AndyT
05-08-2008, 04:24 PM
I've watched Mythbusters. Who is Kenny? Cameraman?

cscotthendry
05-08-2008, 06:55 PM
Hi:

Kenny is Kenny Faeth of Faeth aircraft. It's in San Bernadino I think. He doesn't have a website, nor does he take credit cards. :-) But he's the goto guy when the Mythbusters need airplane parts.