Collimated display build thread...

[geneb]

*blinks*

I tell you what, you call any of the 3 companies I mentioned above, ask about their Mylar supply, sign the NDA required to get pricing and then you'll know exactly how much it costs.

"There must be" isn't so. Also, quit trying to teach your grandmother how to steal sheep.

[Edit: I should note that I'm a rather abrasive, intolerant SOB. Wayne has more diplomat in his fingernails than I do in my entire body.]

g.

[wledzian]

Several people on this forum have been on the lookout for wider material ever since Gene and I announced the success of our 60° prototype display. Gene and I have both contacted a couple mylar suppliers directly, and the response is typically that the market for wider material is small enough that they can't keep the equipment loaded. Essentially, they will sell you wider mylar, IF you purchase an entire production run of three spools of roughly 350,000 feet each, at a price in the low -7- figures (not a typo!).

We've spoken to a member who has already contacted several of the display manufacturers. Basically, they suck up the initial cost, keep enough for a few years' worth of anticipated need, split out the roll and sell it off to other consumers at a discount. If you sign a NDA, they'll quote you a price for a length of wide mylar, but it won't be too far below what they'd charge to come and perform the reskinning service for you.

[DeadlyDad]

Great build! This method (Test results) should give you an even better projection surface.

[vyper883]

Wow! I've been away from the sim community for too long! You guys made some serious progress since last year's prototype!
I'm blown away!

[wledzian]

@deadlydad:
That is an interesting tutorial, I might consider that if I ever get around to setting up a proper home theater. However, due to the large beam angle to the screen (particularly towards the blend regions), high gain is exactly the opposite of what we want. That would lead to horrible hotspotting.

[DeadlyDad]

@deadlydad:
That is an interesting tutorial, I might consider that if I ever get around to setting up a proper home theater. However, due to the large beam angle to the screen (particularly towards the blend regions), high gain is exactly the opposite of what we want. That would lead to horrible hotspotting.

Hmmm... Good point. Here are more. Barium sulfate and magnesium carbonate seem to be the 'go to' chemicals for projector surfaces.

[geneb]

I suspect those DIY forumulations are a cheap way to get Screen Goo? (goop?)

The Behr Silver Screen paint that we used is about $7 or so for a quart and it works very well.

g.

[DeadlyDad]

I suspect those DIY forumulations are a cheap way to get Screen Goo? (goop?)

The Behr Silver Screen paint that we used is about $7 or so for a quart and it works very well.

g.

I'd never heard of the Behr Silver Screen paint, so I Googled it. Interestingly enough, this was the first hit. I'm actually disappointed; their solution is way too simple.

[geneb]

Hehe. Simple is good though.

The Behr Silver Screen is actually a pretty good choice for what we're doing. When the screen is showing all white, it's nearly painful to look at. The projectors we use (Epson 705HD) put out 2600 lumens and you'd be amazed at how bright that is, especially when our original test rig was using an *800* Lumen projector.

g.

[DeadlyDad]

Hehe. Simple is good though.

The Behr Silver Screen is actually a pretty good choice for what we're doing. When the screen is showing all white, it's nearly painful to look at. The projectors we use (Epson 705HD) put out 2600 lumens and you'd be amazed at how bright that is, especially when our original test rig was using an *800* Lumen projector.

g.

Well, that would allow you to use the economy mode and extend your bulb's life.