How to make a simple switch panel

[No Longer Active]

Gear up and down I would use a DPST toggle, as you would need 1 pole for gear up and another pole for gear down. For lights just use a SPST toggle (on off)....

Cheers Alex

PS. If you want to turn on LED's etc you will need an OUTPUT card, everything we have been talking about today is INPUT related.

[Nick1150]

Interesting thread

Given that I would like to do the same thing with the overhead lights panel (no rattaries or pottentiometers) , which card fits the job ?

[editusername]

The input card site tells that I can attach a led to the switch, see this image:

[editusername]

BTW do I need those pin connectors? I'd save 5 pounds by not taking them with the card.
http://www.leobodnar.com/products/BU...connectors.jpg

[No Longer Active]

no no no dont attach led's to this card, you will blow up the card my friend. You cant use LED's with the card. The diagram which you showed me from the leo bodnar site is showing the electrical symbol for diodes...not LED's.....

Believe me and the rest of this forum (including leo himself) you cant attach led's to the card....I cant stress that enough!

[No Longer Active]

Given that I would like to do the same thing with the overhead lights panel (no rattaries or pottentiometers) , which card fits the job ?

Go for the leo bodnar BU0836X card, plenty of outputs, many 737 builders use 2 or 3 of the leo bodnar cards in the O/H.

[editusername]

Thanks for the reply again! I think I'll start with the input card and move on to the I/O card If I feel like it once the current project is finished
How about the pin connectors? Are they spring-release system like in the bigger card? The image isn't very good and I am not very sure what "pin connector" actually means as I am not very familiar with english electronics terms (Being a 15 old guy from Finland...)

[No Longer Active]

With the BU0836 CARD (Cheaper card) it comes with some headers, you solder your wires to the header and then push the header over the pins on the card!

Alex

[editusername]

So that prevents me from accidentally destroying the card while soldering? That would be more suitable for me than the cheaper without them; I like to minimize the risks.

[ANDYSMITH]

Hi, If you even think you might have more than 12 switches I would go with the more expensive X card. Not having to deal with a diode matrix will save you a lot of time and headache. My first card was the inexpensive one and I thought I was doing good because I can solder, and I have a bin full of diodes. Still have a bin full of diodes and 7 more cards, all "X" cards and worth every penny.

Andy