Using a real magneto start switch with FSX

[AK Mongo]

I was able to successfully make it work without PCB's, IC's or any other acronyms except KISS*. It involved a screwdriver, a 6-32 x 3/4 SS machine Screw, a drill and bit, a washer, some super glue and a 1" piece of electrical tape. Took about 10 minutes to do. I wrote up a basic tutorial on my blog, please check it out there if you are trying to do the same thing:
http://juneaucessnasim.blogspot.com/...r-engines.html

Reid

*KISS= Keep It Simple, Stupid!

[Ronson2k9]

My philosophy exactly.. Nice work..

[Marsh]

I know this thread is kind of old now, but I found the same thing. I didn't have the key so I had to pull it apart to yank out the tumblers and thought I put it together wrong. After probing with a multimeter I figured out the matrix, I use 3 inputs on my OC master card without messing with the switch.
I connected the terminals labled "R", "L" and "GND" to the card and supplied one of the center terminals labled "GND" with +5VDC. Then some SIOC script to recognise the positions:
OFF = R & L on
R = only L on
L = GND & R on
BOTH = all off
START = only GND on

[Tom_G_2010]

I know this thread is kind of old now, but I found the same thing. I didn't have the key so I had to pull it apart to yank out the tumblers and thought I put it together wrong. After probing with a multimeter I figured out the matrix, I use 3 inputs on my OC master card without messing with the switch.
I connected the terminals labled "R", "L" and "GND" to the card and supplied one of the center terminals labled "GND" with +5VDC. Then some SIOC script to recognise the positions:
OFF = R & L on
R = only L on
L = GND & R on
BOTH = all off
START = only GND on

Marsh,

I'm glad you posted on this thread. I had attempted a couple experiments including a pc board and had a lot of trouble. I went with Reids solution and it worked great. Now that I've got the switch installed in the panel and wired though I'm experiencing problems. The contact positions all work IF I put some forward and upward pressure on the ignition key. Without that pressure I only get reliable contact on a couple of them.

No flaw at all in Reads design, it's a very simple and easy build. I think the problem might be in the thickness of the washer I used as a center contact. So, I'll be pulling the switch out and attempting to replace it or thin it down. The other possible solution would be to stretch the spring a bit to see if that gets me a little more contact pressure.

I think that will do the trick and I should be all set. But, should that fail I'll be looking for a plan B. As such I was trying to follow your switch logic pattern. I'm missing a detail and it's not making sense to my pre-morning-coffee brain...

Did you wire to 3 or 4 terminals? Is there an outer terminal labeled Gnd and another in the center?