Results 21 to 29 of 29
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12-30-2007, 07:38 PM #21
Hi David,
I dont think you need the 3rd connector - 1 is for when it is on, 3 is for when it is off, the middle(2?) is the common - you could connect the LED to which ever side you want it to come on...
I also dont think you need the power supply we were talking about before if that helps...
Switch back
1(on) 2 3(off)
\ | /
On -ve On
1 = IN02 on Hag
2 = Ground on Hag
3 = not connected
The front will look like:
1(on) 3(off)
Connect the LED between 1 and the IO, dont use 3 as this is essentially off
Any electronics gurus confirm please
Best regards
Mike (having a glass of red as I am getting a bit confused now too )
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12-30-2007, 07:58 PM #22
David,
Another link on the ATX PC power supply, for your info:
http://www.hardwarebook.info/ATX_v2.2_Power_Supply
BTW, don't forget to short the green cable (there is only one) to whichever GND cable (black). You'll need to do this to get power from the unit (ie. to switch it on!).
Also worth mentioning here that there are some old ATX power supplies that won't work if you don't connect them to some power consumer first (a hard drive, a light bulb, ...). Weird, but I have found this with some old units.
Happy New Year!!Luis Gordo
Instructor StationTM - www.iStationGordo.com
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12-31-2007, 08:15 AM #23
Thanks Mike........ I'll give it a try. I too am hoping that the PC power supply won't be required for powering simply one LED !
I will have a try with your diagram above later today and you never know !
I've also dropped Hagstrom an email as Mountie suggested.
Luis - Cheers. Happy New Year to you all !
Cheers,
David.David R
Durham, England
1979 Mooney M20J Cockpit builder ......
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12-31-2007, 08:25 AM #24
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12-31-2007, 09:35 AM #25
Thought it might work if the LED was in series with the switch being in the On position...
Oh well - back to the drawing board
I'll ask someone I know if they have an idea...
Good luck
Mike
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12-31-2007, 09:48 AM #26
Isnt it like this 'tester' circuit:
http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/projects/simplet.htm
Instead of "testing" the switch you are just making the led come on when you complete the circuit by moving the switch to on???
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12-31-2007, 09:57 AM #27
Mmm, looks interesting, thanks Mike.
I guess if it doesn't work it may be because the Hagstrom is not supplying enough power (it is only powered by the PC's PS2 [keyboard] port) ?
I also just realised that the switches indeed have 4 connectors on the back (oops, sorry for the duff previous info). It seems 2 of the connectors are for the switch, and 2 for the LED.....
So I may try a simple experiement to wire up the 2 LED connectors to a battery ...... (switch is already wired up and operating fine with the Hag).
With the LED wired up to the + and - from the battery, we'll then see if the LED lights up when the switch is made... = happy days!
David R
Durham, England
1979 Mooney M20J Cockpit builder ......
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12-31-2007, 10:40 AM #28
David
Here's how you should do it:
GND --------SW--------- IN01
IN01 ---- LED ----220ohm------ +5V from Hagstrom card
The crude diagram above shows a switch connected to IN01 of the Hagstrom card. You would then connect the cathode of the LED to IN01, the anode goes to a resistor (220 ohm is typical for most LED) and the other end of the resistor connects to +5V on the Hagstrom card (this is very important, DO NOT USE AN EXTERNAL POWER SUPPLY).
When the switch is closed, the LED will turn on. This arrangement is best for use with a toggle switch or a latching pushbutton as oppose to a momentary switch.
I got this from Hagstrom so it's reliable information and has been working well for me.
Regards,
Henry
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12-31-2007, 12:40 PM #29
Thanks Henry you're a star.
I am using a latching push button (with integrated LED), and I have now located the cathode and anode for it, so should work exactly as described.
Thanks again Henry, and to all who helped !
Regards,
DavidDavid R
Durham, England
1979 Mooney M20J Cockpit builder ......
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