Ready for installation on the flight deck

[Michael Carter]

Sounds like the timing could be out as you suspect. Theres a few things you can check as well.

1. Make sure that the needle is not in backwards. Sounds stupid but makes a difference.
2. Check that the needle your using is the right one for this material your using. Too fine a needle wont pick up the bobbin for this material.

3. Remove and replace the bobbin making sure that there is no small scraps caught in there.

4. Not sure what type of machine your using but you may be able to get the timing back in place yourself. you should check your manual or look online for one.

Welcome to the frustrations of sewing.

Gary

Thanks for the tips. I'm going to check the needle in the morning. I didn't know it could be installed backwards.

Guy's, I'm debating whether or not to get in to the seat-building business. I need to do a little research and toss some figures around.

I sure wouldn't mind working from home and having my own business. I may have finally found something I can build that people would buy.

[Geremy Britton]

i would buy any flight sim stuff from you given the right price you have done a very good job of many fs parts

good luck with the simbiz

[Michael Carter]

Thanks for the vote of confidence!

[Westozy]

Be careful mate, I have been swamped after the same idea, there's probably 6 months work on the books to do before I get back to my own sim again, I miss it! Go for it, you have the skills...

Gwyn

[npbosch]

Mike,

Very well done and a lot of inspiration for me (seats are my next project).

Question about the armrest. Can you lift it to get into your chair? Pivoting around a nut/bolt will be easy , but how do you keep the armlift from falling down?

If you found a solution , do you have a picture? e the seat

PS do you have a picture from the seatrail? Is it easy to move the seat from front to back?

Thanks for any info about this.

Regards

Norbert

[Michael Carter]

There is a grade-8 bolt screwed into the side of the chair from the inside used as a stop for the arms. This stop also keeps the arms from swinging up past the vertical. It must be positioned correctly to do both jobs.

After the bolt was installed, heat shrink tubing was applied and shrunk around he exposed stud.

The arms use a 1/2" plain bolt with the hex head countersunk (using a hex cut hole) and then JB Welded flush with the outside edge.

The bolt is double nutted and washered from the inside and then red Loc-Tite was used on the threads. Seeing how there's no getting back inside of this chair, I had to make sure those nuts wouldn't back off over time. I let the Loc-Tite dry overnight before moving the arms.

The arms are washered-out from the side of the chair about 1/4"-5/16" using an alternating sandwich of metal and nylon washers of the same diameter.



The arms are ripped 2x4's cut to dimension. The armrest pads are 1/4" MFD with 1/4" closed-cell foam covered with a medium weight vinyl. The pads are attached to the arms through countersunk holes through the bottom of the arms and then a plastic cap was inserted into the hole. Depth of these holes is critical to keep the screw from coming through the armrest pad or feeling it while you are resting your arm on it.

The back end of the arm is laminated with 1/8" MFD and serves to bulk up the rear of the arm, provide a stop for the cushion pad, and to cover the bolt head that supports the arm.

The seat is not adjustable. It was built for my required eyepoint height over the glareshield and seat tilt was measured at about 15 degrees back, give or take.

Rails will be added to the floor in the future. I've figured out a way to get in and out of the left side without to many contorsions. In fact, I've gotten quite used to it.

Thanks for looking.