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I plan on covering an LCD with MDF with cutouts to simulate gauges. I found these dimensions http://www.mikesflightdeck.com/dimen...t_cutouts.html
My assumption is that these dimensions are for the face of the gauges and if I was to make a bezel to insert into the cutout I would need to enlarge the cutout so that the inside diameter of the bezel is the size listed for the cutouts?
I hope this question makes sense.
Thanks,
Steve
The cutout for a large gauge is 79mm and the cutout for a small gauge is 56mm.
So, your faceplate should be a little shorter maybe 2-3mm shorter in dia. The 2-3mm dia will represent the thickness of the gauge wall depending on what type of bezel you are using. If you are not using a bezel then you could reduce the cutout by a few mm (maybe 2-3mm) which will make up for the bezel thats not actually there. So your (large) cutouts could in fact be 76mm if you wanted and your small cutouts be 53-54mm if you wanted, its entirely up to you mate!
Alex
Thanks for the quick reply. I know it's not important if I'm 100% to scale with real instruments but I'd like to try to be as much as I can.
I have supplies to try and cast material that is black and would like to cast them to be a standard size as I might cast extras and offer them up for sale to try and bring a little money in for a change (instead of constantly money going out!).
It is entirely possible to mold the bezels. I have cast many out of resin that I purchase from Smooth-On. Most of these have been given away to other simmers. Once you get the hang of molding, you can make knobs, korries, bezels, gears and many other items that can be used in this hobby. Good luck and have fun.
Milt
Milt - Thanks for the encouragement. Smooth-On is the same place I got my stuff from, Black Onyx. It looks fun and full of possibilities.
Moisture is the enemy of the resin. Keep the cover tightly sealed at all times. I bought some small plastic paint bottles at Michaels to put the resin I was planning on using in. It keeps you from having to open the main bottle all of the while. Keep it in a cool place in the house. I believe that I have been having problems with the OOMOO thickening up due to heat. I now keep it next to one of our air conditioning ducts. I probably have over 50 knobs, pointers, bezels, and gears. Let your imagination run wild, if you can make one, you can make a hundred. If you need any help, or have any questions, just ask. Oh yeah, get yourself some plastic pill cups. These are one ounce cups and can be used over and over as the resin does not stick to the plastic. These can be gotten online. Just google 1 ounce plastic pill cups. I think they are about $5 for 100.
Milt
Thanks again Milt, this information will be very useful. I plan on doing the casting in my basement which is pretty chilly and low on humidity this time of year. Great idea of breaking the resin down to smaller containers, I'll have to make a trip to Michael's soon.
As the proud recipient of Milt's generosity, I can't speak highly enough about his bezels!
Reid
Hi, our solution was to use 5mm polystirol sheet, buyed in local Bricostore 100x200mm. Easy to cut, paint, and not braking like plexi. We have made a frame from MDF for monitors, and the sheets are just face plates. For the instruments we used 60mm cut out (hole driller), and made the gauge frame from cabel hole cover. (the cabel hole cover have 60mm diameter.
Some pics:
first canceled project:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1088433...04145645403154
Next project:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1088433...91158807502034
https://picasaweb.google.com/1088433...91187746729618
First light up:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1088433...99067779016370
Under the round bezels is from 1mm polistirol sheet cuted design frames. 70mmx70mm. The PFD and ND display frame is from 10mmx10mm pvc corner profile, fixed with two component super glue, cutted by hand.
Gabor