hi guys anyone have the part number for the alps studio faders,100k sliders to connect my throttles up to?
i remember seeing a post about them but didnt copy the part number down
cheers
steve diamond
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hi guys anyone have the part number for the alps studio faders,100k sliders to connect my throttles up to?
i remember seeing a post about them but didnt copy the part number down
cheers
steve diamond
Hello Steve,
Why use more expensive and less durable solution ?
A 10k round pot will do the same, just epoxy a thin aluminium plate approx 2" long to the pot shaft, install the pot to sturdy location and secure the throttle cable on the same attachment.
You don't need the full motion from the pot since you must calibrate it anyway.
I will make my throttles using gears like the Baron
http://www.baron58.com
G'day Steve,
My wife packs shelves whilst studying at Uni for her speech pathology degree, she graduates in November, all means to an end mate, Goodonya!
I use cheap pots too and connect to them using the brass bit out of a 'blue point' elctrical conector, (Cable joiner). The brass bit has two screws, I tighten one onto the flat of the pot and the other to whatever linkage is needed, it works good and is adjustable. Linear pots are more susceptable to dust intrusion which causes signal noise etc.
Enjoy the cricket this season? LOL
Gwyn
I bought 5 of my Sliders for $6.00US from Mouser.com
<TABLE class=bluetable id=Table6 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px solid; BORDER-TOP: 1px solid; BORDER-LEFT: 1px solid; WIDTH: 750px; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px solid" cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=2 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=normalfont style="WIDTH: 10%; BACKGROUND-COLOR: white" vAlign=top align=left><TABLE class=bluetable id=Table6 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px solid; BORDER-TOP: 1px solid; BORDER-LEFT: 1px solid; WIDTH: 750px; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px solid" cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=2 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=normalfont style="WIDTH: 10%; BACKGROUND-COLOR: white" vAlign=top align=left>RA300B-10-20D1-B15</TD><TD class=normalfont style="WIDTH: 28%; BACKGROUND-COLOR: white" vAlign=top align=left>Taiwan Alpha Slide Potentiometers
30mm Linear 100K</I>
ENGINE 1-2-3</TD><TD class=normalfont style="WIDTH: 5%; BACKGROUND-COLOR: white" vAlign=top noWrap align=middle>3</TD><TD class=normalfont style="WIDTH: 5%; BACKGROUND-COLOR: white" vAlign=top noWrap align=right>$1.180</TD><TD class=normalfont style="WIDTH: 10%; BACKGROUND-COLOR: white" vAlign=top noWrap align=right>$3.54</TD><TD class=normalfont style="WIDTH: 12%; BACKGROUND-COLOR: white" vAlign=top noWrap align=middle>3 Shipped
</TD><TD class=normalfont style="WIDTH: 5%; BACKGROUND-COLOR: white" vAlign=top noWrap align=middle></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD><TD class=normalfont style="WIDTH: 28%; BACKGROUND-COLOR: white" vAlign=top align=left></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE class=bluetable id=Table6 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px solid; BORDER-TOP: 1px solid; BORDER-LEFT: 1px solid; WIDTH: 750px; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px solid" cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=2 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=normalfont style="WIDTH: 10%; BACKGROUND-COLOR: white" vAlign=top align=left>RA300BF-10-20D1-B10K</TD><TD class=normalfont style="WIDTH: 28%; BACKGROUND-COLOR: white" vAlign=top align=left>Taiwan Alpha Slide Potentiometers
30mm TRVL Linear 10K</I>
SPOILER/FLAP</TD><TD class=normalfont style="WIDTH: 5%; BACKGROUND-COLOR: white" vAlign=top noWrap align=middle>2</TD><TD class=normalfont style="WIDTH: 5%; BACKGROUND-COLOR: white" vAlign=top noWrap align=right>$1.350</TD><TD class=normalfont style="WIDTH: 10%; BACKGROUND-COLOR: white" vAlign=top noWrap align=right>$2.70</TD><TD class=normalfont style="WIDTH: 12%; BACKGROUND-COLOR: white" vAlign=top noWrap align=middle>2 Shipped
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Trev
I must add here though, the longer the travel the finer the adjustment can be made. You cannot get a full turn out of the pot by transfering linear motion(throttle arm) to rotary motion pot (pot travel) without using gearing. The longer the travel, the better. If you have room for the gears, by all means use them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jylhami
For that reason I chose 100mm slide pots too. No room for gears. I used Panasonic heavy duty 10K sliders. They use two stainless steel rails for the nylon wiper to ride on. The circuit card is riveted to the steel housing. Probably the best constructed pot I've seen.
I wouldn´t recommend slide pots either, you get the problem that when fer example you want to set 86% of N1 on both throttle handles one of them has to be more forward than the other and also they last less the Rotary type pots are much better and they are enclosed.
Take care,
Roberto
Rotary versus slide here guys is a preference. I would prefer sliders myself. And with remote control RC cables you could mount them in a way to minimize dust problems! It is all what you the builder wants and can make work. That is the beauty of this hobby, to each his own! And it is amazing to see how many ways there are to get the same end!
I have found this actually Roberto. For some reason Even though the slider from one extreme to the other is 0K and 100K in the middle each slider is a little different. It worked out pretty good for me, showing a little difference in each engine. This was a plus, as it looks like each engine is totally indipendant when each is a little off of one another.Quote:
Originally Posted by dodiano
Mine are extremely close too. No more than an 1/8" of difference in positions at all power settings for all three throttles.
It tooks hours to calibrate, but they work well.
I installed rubber dust seals on mine.
Yeah you are right I have been able to minimize that difference using the Round type pots with the Sliders was bigger the difference and you are right it is a bonus cause it is also realistic sometimes one engine is slightly off to the other!Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor Hale
Roberto
I used these for my throttle quad :
copy and paste the link :
http://www1.be.conrad.com/scripts/wgate/zcop_be/~flNlc3Npb249UDkwX0JFX0IyQzpDX0FHQVRFMDM6MDAwMC4wMTJhLjBjNWIxM2YzJn5odHRwX2NvbnRlbnRfY2hhcnNldD1pc28tODg1OS0xJn5TdGF0ZT0xMjkwNDYyNA==?~template=PCAT_AREA_S_BROWSE&p_selected_area=%24ROOT&perform_special_action=&glb_user_js=Y&shop=BE&product_show_id=&p_page_to_display=DirektSearch&~cookies=1&zhmmh_lfo=&zhmmh_area_kz=&s_haupt_kategorie=&p_searchstring=studiofader&p_searchstring_artnr=&r3_matn=&insert_kz=&area_s_url=&area_url=&direkt_aufriss_area=&p_countdown=&p_80=&p_80_category=&p_80_article=&p_next_template_after_login=&mindestbestellwert=&login=&password=&bpemail=&bpid=&url=&show_wk=&use_search=3&p_back_template=&template=&kna_news=&p_status_scenario=&documentselector=&p_load_area=$ROOT&p_artikelbilder_mode=&p_sortopt=&page=&p_catalog_max_results=10
I am very happy with these, you can see how I fixed them in the quad here :
http://www.projectmagenta.com/dreamflight/news2005.html
with a little help from lego ;-)
Well they say a picture paints 1000 words, and man do these! Great shots of how you did that on the entire sim!
Excellent work Marnix :)
Hi,
I have exchanged ALL pots in my cockpit (i.e. Stick, throttle, rudders) with HALL sensors. These employ contactless technoligy and produce a chrystal clear, 100% linear output without spikes. And they do not degrade over time.
The effect is absolutely striking, in all my devices. They feel now like true precision instruments. Hall sensors are not cheap, but imho this was one of the best investments I ever made in my pit!
Here is the link: http://www.cubpilotshangar.net/
Pictures about my modifications are on my web site www.hanskrohn.com
Regards, Hans